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![The brains behind the world famous New York grooming club on the secrets to finding your perfect look. By <a href="http://sharpformen.com/author/xiaoli-li/">Xiaoli Li</a><p><em>A year ago, <a href="http://johnallans.com/" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','http://johnallans.com']);">John Allan’s Club</a>—originally a New York City staple for male pampering—</em><em>opened in <a href="http://www.thebay.com/" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','http://www.thebay.com']);">the Bay’s</a> Queen Street Toronto location. Last night, the club celebrated the granting of its liquor licensing (and 390th member) with one hell of a party. We caught up with the man himself and got his thoughts on personal style, modern men’s fashion, and of course, hair.</em></p>
<p><strong>When it comes to picking a haircut, does the shape of your face really matter?</strong></p>
<p>Absolutely. But the thing with guys—[and] I don’t know if it’s just with guys—when you work against certain things you bring out character…and with guys, bringing out certain characteristics is a good thing with a haircut.</p>
<p>Sometimes when you go by the rules, the end result doesn’t have any pizazz. And sometimes when you don’t, you create a certain level of boldness…sometimes that’s more appealing, at least to me, anyway. But in direct answer to your question, we do follow certain rules in regards to the shape of [one's] face and hair, but over the years, I tend to go against those rules.</p>
<p><strong>What about the texture of hair? How does that change what you work with?</strong></p>
<p>It affects your approach, and what the result is going to be, you know? Again, sometimes it’s [about] creating an angst that creates the perfect style-so dealing with texture matters tremendously, depending on what the final product’s gonna be.</p>
<p><strong>There’s a glut of styling products out there for men – How does a man know which ones to use, and which ones will work for him?</strong></p>
<p>For me, it’s about going with the professional stuff. You know, buying across the counter doesn’t let a guy see exactly what we’re talking about…when we talk about a wax-based pomade versus a water-based pomade, or different types of textured gels and things. What I always say to the guys is, whether it’s John Allan’s or not, just get into the professional stuff. Sometimes you need an extra five minutes to ask these exact questions. See how the product’s being applied and ask your stylist, “Why?,” you know? Don’t just accept it. Ask, “Why did you pick this?” Let them explain. I think that’s the best way to learn this sort of thing.</p>
<p><strong>What would you recommend a guy with a receding hairline do?</strong></p>
<p>Everybody always says just go short. My approach is more about trying to embrace the fact. Or, do you want to go another way with that fact? Because there’s a lot of positive things in the marketplace today. In dealing with that, I’m more direct than other people are, because I know what the guy’s feelin’, so I say to them: “Listen man, we can go this way, or what I would prefer you do…” Again, getting back to texture of hair and things…sometimes you can play with a little bit longer length, but the thing is not to hide it.</p>
<p>So even if you’re going longer, embrace it. With some guys there are certain things in our lives that are just like: go with it man. And then what happens is you either go one way or the other, and both are positive. A lot of times we get caught in the middle of the road for too long.</p>
<p><strong>Is there a timeless, no fail timeless hairstyle that works for any man?</strong></p>
<p>Today, the one thing that’s good about the landscape in men’s grooming is versatility. The trend of things…trends are versatile. There’s no longer one. You can shave it, you can have it down to your shoulders…I mean, for once in our lives, we have some options in our field. It’s not just about, “Okay, so right now, the Financial District’s in fashion, so we’re gonna go back to the J.P. Morgan-style,” or whatever. Right now, men can play with all styles.</p>
<p><strong>Why did you choose to open your Club <em>inside</em> the Bay?</strong></p>
<p>I think when we do things like this inside the Bay, where we’re now part of retail—so to speak…you can see we’re kind of integrating it all. That’s why we do head-to-toe grooming—you can get your hair cut, a manicure, get your shoes shined. When you leave John Allan’s, you’re feeling pretty good. We see guys and say, “You know what, have you ever tried a Ted Baker XYZ?” Because they normally wouldn’t, and they’re normally not in the forum to do so. That’s what we’re really trying to accomplish with our guys…is just trying to get them to that place where they understand what style is about.</p>
<p><strong>What do you hope to teach your members about style?</strong></p>
<p>You can have a suit from this that’s a $500 good wool suit, and you have it tailored nice to fit you – not just off the rack and do the sleeves and the cuff—but have it fit you, and most people wouldn’t be able to tell who you’re wearing. So to get that into guy’s heads, about certain things that matter—like fit. Don’t take that for granted. And don’t think just because you have the perfect fit body that that’s just right. You know? And if we can turn men up a notch we will have done good for mankind, I believe. We’ll let em, at least, relax about it a bit more.</p>
<p><strong>How does a man’s personal style come into play? Should hair be predicated on his personal style?</strong></p>
<p>The key thing is suitability. Hair has to suit you…it has to fit your personality. Unless you’re that kind of person who can go against their personality and be comfortable, and that’s when you get out into the trends within your own balance. You understand what I’m saying? That’s kind of where I come from, man, and if I can get guys to understand this, I think they’ll be more relaxed in their approach about it…that they don’t have to live up to this or that…it just has to fit your body properly, whatever your shape may be.</p>
<p><strong>What’s the one style essential that all men must have?</strong></p>
<p>The one thing I think is key in men’s wardrobing, is a really good tailor. Have a good tailor. I think [once] guys get into that, I think they get a little more comfortable. Get a good tailor, man.</p>
<p><em><a href="http://johnallans.com/clubs/toronto-bay" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','http://johnallans.com']);">John Allan’s Club</a> is located on the second floor of the Bay at Yonge & Queen Street in Toronto.</em></p>
A Conversation With John Allan, Master Barber And All Around Style Guru](http://sharpformen.com/wp-content/gallery/a-conversation-with-john-allan/john-jallan-jlamour-jshot.jpg)